The land they craft the earth - Nepal

From Rishikesh to reach Kathmandu and the opposite you need to spend 48 hours travelling if you choose the cheap option (bus / train). I know well because I did it both ways.
If you arrive at the borders at night make sure to get a hotel in Nepali side. The bus can take 9-12 hours. I took the local and not the tourist bus and its the first time I regretted on that. It took 2-3 hours more while sitting was much more uncomfortable. Make sure to sit on the left side to get good views of the amazing rivers in the way.

Two river connecting - bus view

The night of the 27th I met François who came all the way from France for two weeks. In Kathmandu the tourist hub is Thamel and thats where François booked a hotel for the first night. We had discussed by email to do some trekking and yoga but I could never expect what would follow.

François had in mind the three major treks, Everest base camp, Annapurna base camp and Langtang area. I had in mind one day's trek on a hill or something but when he told me his ideas, I became instantly positive on doing anything.  We had to decide which one to do and if we should take a guide or not.

Next morning was the time to decide so we asked a trekking organiser about the treks to get a small idea. Guided treks would last about a week and the cost would be around 300 euros. Thats the money I spent the whole previous month so it was hard for me to accept it. Thinking though that Francois came from so far for this, I would feel guilty not to agree on doing this. Before taking quick decisions, I wanted to seek more info about the treks as I dont enjoy having guides. 

While having the breakfast before taking the final decision, destiny sent us a western athletic guy to sit on the next table. I asked him directly if he did any trek and he told us he did everest base camp. He had all the answers we were seeking for and after 10 minutes we knew we would go to langtang with no guide... Hooray!!!

India is manufactoring some beautiful old style motorbikes under the brandname "Royal Enfield". I told François to try one  someday, so we asked for the price. It was more expensive to rent than India but then we realise that some 150cc hondas were very cheap to rent.
After we heard that next bus to Langtang was next morning and we would arrive at night, François insisted on renting the motos directly and leave Kathmandu. 

Last thing before leaving was to acquire the trekking permit of Nepal for 20 dollars. Around 15:40 we were driving out of Kathmandu and our decision to get the bikes started paying us off directly.

Beautiful landscapes and fog in the valley

The lanscapes in Nepal are magic and having the bikes just made us enjoy more while we were stopping quite often for photos. 

The way they carve all the hills and mountains for rice and vegetable plantation looks unreal. Deep valleys, high mountains, countless rivers and waterfalls can describe nature at its best in Nepal.

Crafted valleys and high mountains - Everest is in the pic

After one and a half hours driving it was getting dark and we thought it would be good to find a place to sleep. We wanted to ask locals for hospitality and François saw an old man with a big local "trompet" on his back so he stopped. While they were discussing in body language I was surrounded by five kids having our little discussions too. I told them with my little Nepali my name and that I come from Greece. They introduced also and start asking me many questions I couldnt reply. They really liked the bike too. François told me that probably we sleep at someones place so I was happy. When I say involve with locals I mean exactly this. Simple and authentic locals that dont speak english.
Before moving kids asked me if I have chocolate and I was sad I didnt have. Then they spotted my mandolin and I told them I ll come back in 30 minutes to play for them.

We followed the old man for 200m and he took us to the little shop of another local that could speak few english. His name was Namraj and he prepared us a tea. I asked about place to sleep and food and he said we ll go at his house in an hour. People started gathering in the shop to see the strange foreigners.  The tromped guy assembled his trompet and showed me the way the play it. Probably they use it only for spiritual rituals. I took out the mandolin and started playing for them. I think it really made them happy.

Then I took some chocolates and my mandolin and went back to the first place we stopped as I promised to the kids. Electricity was out and in the pitch black the mother was scared when she saw me. I didnt want to scare her more. I just spreaded my hand and passed her the chocolates for the kids before I walk back to Namraj's shop. The village was called Amare in Nuwakot district.

Time passed and we went at his house. I asked him for some local rice seeds and he was happy to give. Of course I couldnt carry too much but I got a decent amount. We had some delicious food and buffalo milk while meeting his family. Later we went to feed the chickens next to the shop and we returned to the house. Namraj gave us his and his wife's room and wouldn't accept no for an answer. 

In Namraj's room - dreaming of the sea

Next morning after having a chai, we wanted to leave some money as a thank you but he wouldn't accept it. And that's what I call hospitality. We promised to pass by on the way back and we hit the road.

François,  Namraj and Namraj junior in his shop

After two-three hours we thought to have a chai and something to eat. We were looking again for an authentic local place. We found a small community of 10-15 houses surrounding the road and the stop our bikes. 

We asked for chai and we took a sit while the family called their 10 years old son to communicate in english. His name is Sushil and man, he could soeak great english. All the covillagers were admiring the kid for being able to communicate with us so easily.

Very beautiful and hospitale family. Sushil wrote down for me some nepali expressions I wanted to know and after a short music session, we exchanged contacts and promised to see again on the way back. Sushil's younger sister had a very expressive face looking like a movie star. Warm and beautiful, when she looks at you and smiles can really make your heart fly. This village was called Dharapani in RasuRasuwa district.

The stop in Dharapani. Sushil and sister are in the left

I have to say that during the bike ride we saw many many beautiful simple women with colourful clothes. Men can be happy making this roadtrip.

Soon we arrived in langtang national park (paying again 30 $ just to take a permit to enter) and we drove down to seybrubesi where we were thinking to leave the bikes and start the hike next morning. We got a hotel next to the river and to our surprise we read that there are hot springs next to it :)

We left our stuff and headed to the springs. When we arrived we saw just a tiny pool (2x1.5m) filled only with women. For 30 seconds we didnt know what to do until I found the courage to ask if we can join. In 1 minute me and Francois were enjoying the hot water surrounded by nepali women and girls of all ages (including a 3-4 years old boy). I started making silly talking to break the ice and soon there was no much awkardness left, just people enjoying the presents of nature. two pipes were bringing water, one hot and one normal. Slowly slowly we were moving towards the hot and I got my place next to the pipe. I dont remember what I was jibbering about making gestures when my arm rested for a second under the pouring hot water. I did a very funny scream and all the nepali women started laughing hard, enjoying my suffering. :)

The night we discovered the old seybrubesi across the bridge and wished we had stayed there as it was so beautiful and original.

On the bridge of old Seybrubesi

Next morning the big trek would begun.