An insanely crazy city - Kathmandu

Its been three weeks since I left Kathmandu and I still cant make up my feeling about this city. Love and hate share an equal part.

Rickshaw in Kathmandu

To begin with, there is way much pollution and dust and half the habitants wear masks to cover their mouth and nose. The day we left for the trek on the second day in Nepal (28/11),  i caught a sore throat that followed me in all the trek (including the nose that wouldnt stop puring beautiful sticky liquids. And trust me, it can be tricky with all this beard).

Festivities in the streets

On the way to monkey temple

Anyway, the first day we came back (5/12), after the trek, we got a mask too and started searching what we could do those five remaining days there.
We checked in at the same hotel and decided to go visit the Durbar square where there are many old temples gathered and it's a must.

Durbar square with my Nepali topi (hat)

Durbar square is quite impressive but as usual in Nepal, if you are a tourist, you have to pay a lot to get in. It is also quite easy to sneak in but we only realised after we had already paid.

Many many clay pots

Big city life can be frustrating when you try to find something to do so I decided to help our misery and have a look online for events. The search paid off and we spent our night listening to a famous rock band from Delhi called "Parikrama". The whole organisation and attendants were a bit posh but the concert was taking place in a beautiful garden. Everybody was sitting on the back drinking and eating snacks and in front of the scene it was empty, minutes before the music started. I was  trying to convince Francois to go take our place in first row in front of the singer so we enjoy full power the concert but he was too shy to go stand there like the cucumber (greek expression). I managed to get him close though and when music started and people started coming in front, we were pretty well placed and just few guys in front of us had a better view. 

The concert didn't last long but it was extraordinary. At the end, the band did a lottery to give a nice fender guitar signed by them and  as they didnt organised it well and most of the papers the singer was picking had no names, he took the guitar, came in front and just passed it to the people in front of us who almost broke it before one of them, shouting at the others, won it. Francois thought to try as it was just in front of us but he gave up quickly. And now that I m writing this, I m realising something...

François,  this message is for you...
If you weren't shy and had listened to me, we would have that guitar now... so now, you owe me half signed guitar! 

The lesson from today's post is, when you go to a concert and you see free space in front of the singer, take your drink and go and stand there. You get connected with the artist so much and they get connected to you. It happened to me also that the artist pass me the microphone to sing the song... hahahha

Have a look on you tube for Parikrama, they really worth a chance to enter your music list (especially for the high pitches the singer can reach).

A leaflet of yoga was hanging by the stairs of our hotel and I started checking out the schedule and the names of the teachers for no apparent reason. It was destiny to see the name "Thanos" written and I called directly to ask about him. He was a Greek man indeed and as soon as I got his phone, we arrange to go to his next yoga session.

I m not a yoga expert or something but from my experience with 8-9 different teachers I can say that Thanos made me a Francois reach a meditation state we never reached before on all three sessions we attended. It is true that Greece let her great spirits go away and do great things elsewhere. Or I cant blame Greece, its more the people that govern us since many many years now. Ler hope for a change on next elections next month.

We had a tea with Thanos after the class and as there was good chemistry between all three, he offered to show us the Boudhha neighborhood where he lives and where is the biggest stupa (Buddhist temple) in Kathmandu. 

The Boudhha stupa

Escaping touristic Thamel and going to Boudhha was a delight. It is like all Buddhist community and it feels much more original than fake Thamel.
We visited a monastery just in front of the stupa (of course we sneaked in to the stupa area and didn't pay as Thanos knows the tricks) and I have no words to describe how beautiful it was. So many colors and art. I was almost ready to become a bouddhist monk and stay there meditating by looking the beautiful paintings.
Thanos took us also to another well known monastery called Shechen where there was a guest house just next to the temple. It was so peaceful in there and we were so fed up with Thamel that we decided to move there for our last two days even if price was more than double than our hotel.

In Kathmandu we discovered many little local restaurants where we had delicacies and nice conversations with drunk Nepalis at nights. Our favorite place to eat was a tiny hole (that s supposed to be a food place) where you can't stand normally as you hit the cealing but there are three tables and after you sit you are ok. The people who run the place are short enough to spend all their day working there comfortably.
Except the usual chowmein and momos, it was the only place we found some dry baked beans. Small beans that I really dont know how they prepare it but they our puffy and crunchy like eating nuts and they taste like heaven. I was also getting these fried little river fishes that were also delicious.

Francois was making fun of me because I got one wonderful metal mandala they sell here. He said he can find everywhere this but I never saw it selling it before. 

Showing to François how many shapes I can do with my mandala

He also made fun of me because I like singing bowls and I was thinking to get one or more and to his bad luck, his mother send him an email next morning telling him to bring her a bowl to use it for meditation after yoga. I was then making fun of him for making fun of me but I was also happy to go search for bowls. No luck on first day plus very high prices.

Next day and before moving to Boudhha, we separated with Francois for 2 hours. He wanted to get some clothes and I wanted to get contacts of nepali cotton  traders as I was always a big fan of this colourful and striped fabric. We were supposed to meet at 12:30 in front of a momo place and  I was there waiting for him when two blond long-haired twin brothers with very eccentric clothes and hats passed by. Their skin was pale and they were walking next to each other without speaking, catching the attention of all people for their similarity and bizarreness. They passed by me and I kept looking as they were getting away when I noticed a nepali guy with rasta walking past them and by his expressions I thought "wow, he is thinking the same I was thinking 5 seconds ago". When he turned his head front he looked at me and smiled as he realised that I was thinking tha same. I said "strange, ha?" and he asked me if I know them and if they are some kind of rock stars. I said I doubt it and we start having a nice conversation with the guy while waiting François. He was giving me this beautiful energy that I get sometimes from people so I was happy to talk with him.
When he told me that for living he does healings with singing bowls, I thought that all my life similar things are happening. I look for something and somehow it comes to me. I immediately asked him how you can identify a good from a bad bowl and how much would be a normal price for it as we were looking for François' mother. He told me that he has many good bowls and could choose one for us depending on when she was born. Francois arrived at this point and we went all to his store to explain us more. His services were quite expensive for my budget but quite fair for what he offers. He told us about both his healings and the bowls and we left we François to have lunch and discuss about it.
Francois wanted my honest opinion on if I think that his healing would be something special or just overcharging and I told him that I feel the kindness of the guy and that I believe it will be something amazing and that he should try. He liked my answer and he said "Ok, we will both do one healing with him and its on me.

Chaitanyashree's card. Forgot to take a photo together

When he came out of the healing he was smiling so much and he told me "I cant believe why I hesitate on trying great things like this and other times I spent lots of money and time in stupid things". I was happy for him and ready to go in and experience it for myself.

I can admit it was far better from what I expected.  Chaitanyashree (thats his name) has a beautiful voice, some powerful singing bowls for each chakra, some interesting percussion instruments, some relaxing music and many perfumes and he can lead you to another world with his abilities. During this session I travelled through space, to the desert, to the beach, in the sea and many other places. The most amazing part though was when at some point I was feeling I was floating on energy and I could clearly visualise it with my eyes closed...Unforgettable experience.
We had an amazing connection with Chaitanyashree from the very beginning until now and I m sure he will come to Crete at some point in the future so whoever is interested, let me know.
Also next day we managed to find a big beautiful bowl for François' mother.

Our last day in Nepal we decided to go an excursion with Thanos to Nagarkot, a place where you can have astonishing views of the mountains. Even if we spent most of our day in buses and only two ours in the actual place, it was still amazing.

In Nagarkot with Thanos

They told us that one of the peaks is Everest.
Guess which. 

Thanos is a wonderful person, a bit tired from living in Kathmandu (I wouldn't stand more than a month and he is there almost two years) and ready to move somewhere else. I m sure we ll meet again and share good times and another spiritual yoga session.

Next day I took a bus at 12:00 to the borders, and had to run to catch the last bus after the borders in India and not get stuck there in the middle of nowhere...
After 50 hours of transportation I reached Rishikesh once again on the 12th December for some more yoga.

Goodbye Nepal. Hello India, I missed you.

Last thing I want to say is that I thank the divine every day for giving me so many amazing people as friends. François is a smart, spontanious, caring guy that can really add love and energy with his presence. Love you man!

Surrounded by snow peaks 2 - Nepal

The morning of 30th November me and Francois left Seybrubesi to go up to Langtang. We had a map and a guidebook about Langtang trekking, our backpacks and some trekking poles we got from the first guest house we met (actually one baton and 2 bamboo sticks) and we started walking up parallel to the river.

In reality you dont need any guides or even a map here. The path is totally clear with many places to eat or sleep on the way up. Water runs free everywhere from the high mountains but if you are afraid to drink it you have to pay the bottles 12 times more expensive than in the city... Generally expect to pay a lot for food up in the mountains.

We did the trek up to Kyanjing Gomba (3800m) in 2 days in a very good pace while the guidebook was proposing 3 days and we found a nice guesthouse with superviews on the mountains from our beds. The host was a nice tibetan lady with 3 adorable daughters. I just can recall the name of the baby one... Pemba. We really enjoy their company. On our first night, two of the host's friends arrived and she was proposing us to marry them and live in Nepal. I was laughing a lot when the girls were teasing us before going to bed.

In the whole trekking we did one big mistake. We didn't rest after the two difficult first days and the third day we went to climb the Tserko Ri peak at 4984m. Even if you know that it's 1200m difference,  when you see the peak, you feel its very easy to do. But no, it is not easy.

After 4,5 hours of steep hiking (30 minutes walking in snow and ice, we arrived at the peak totally destroyed. Of course the altitude wasn't helping at all but the view was just out of this world.

I get a similar feeling whenever I go up to peaks. You dont feel you are in the same world. There is too much energy up there making it totally spiritual and magic.

Next to us was standing proud the Langtang Lirung at 7246m and all around us tens of peaks of 6000 to 7000m. I said to myself "Yianni ok, you went quite high this time, no need to go this high again in your life" while wondering how crazy they are the people who climb to peaks like Everest. The decrease of oxygen was quite obvious from the very beginning to the very end. Forty meters before the peak I wanted to make fun at Francois saying "I ll reach the top first, you f****r" but after 15m I couldnt breath anymore and had some hard time while laughing and saying "never try running at 5000m".

After 2, 5 hours going down we arrived at the Snow leopard guest house and I was asking myself if I ever felt so tired again. Even if i did, for sure it was long time ago..

I m not going to say more about the hike and tire you, I ll let the pictures below do the talking.

To finish up, we did the return from kyanjing gomba to seybrubesi  in one and half day and took our bikes until Trishuli where we spent our night. Before, we passed by Sushil's place but Sushil wasn't there. We had a chai with the family and they told us to go see Sushil 10 km after, in his school. So we did and he was very happy to see us.
Next morning we passed by Namraj and all the family was at the shop. We showed them some pictures from our trek and soon a ritual with music and dance started taking place outside the shop.

Before midday the 6th December, we arrived in Kathmandu and left our beloved bikes.

Mountains in parallel

Night view from Goretabola

Black monkey posing gor François

Looking for yak wool? Here it is

Moon rising on Tserko ri peak 

Keep forgetting the name of this impressive peak at ~6500m

Night view from kyanjing Gomba

Tibetans do this every morning and pray with Dalai Lama

The two tibetan daughters at "Snow leopard" guest house... adorable 

Flags, flags, flags and sun on the top of tserko ri..

François and Langtang Lirung

Paradise

Panoramic paradise

Langatang valley and Kyanjing Gomba

Can't have enough...

Namraj junior



More angels in Amare

Tamang sister and little daughter - I miss them

The land they craft the earth - Nepal

From Rishikesh to reach Kathmandu and the opposite you need to spend 48 hours travelling if you choose the cheap option (bus / train). I know well because I did it both ways.
If you arrive at the borders at night make sure to get a hotel in Nepali side. The bus can take 9-12 hours. I took the local and not the tourist bus and its the first time I regretted on that. It took 2-3 hours more while sitting was much more uncomfortable. Make sure to sit on the left side to get good views of the amazing rivers in the way.

Two river connecting - bus view

The night of the 27th I met François who came all the way from France for two weeks. In Kathmandu the tourist hub is Thamel and thats where François booked a hotel for the first night. We had discussed by email to do some trekking and yoga but I could never expect what would follow.

François had in mind the three major treks, Everest base camp, Annapurna base camp and Langtang area. I had in mind one day's trek on a hill or something but when he told me his ideas, I became instantly positive on doing anything.  We had to decide which one to do and if we should take a guide or not.

Next morning was the time to decide so we asked a trekking organiser about the treks to get a small idea. Guided treks would last about a week and the cost would be around 300 euros. Thats the money I spent the whole previous month so it was hard for me to accept it. Thinking though that Francois came from so far for this, I would feel guilty not to agree on doing this. Before taking quick decisions, I wanted to seek more info about the treks as I dont enjoy having guides. 

While having the breakfast before taking the final decision, destiny sent us a western athletic guy to sit on the next table. I asked him directly if he did any trek and he told us he did everest base camp. He had all the answers we were seeking for and after 10 minutes we knew we would go to langtang with no guide... Hooray!!!

India is manufactoring some beautiful old style motorbikes under the brandname "Royal Enfield". I told François to try one  someday, so we asked for the price. It was more expensive to rent than India but then we realise that some 150cc hondas were very cheap to rent.
After we heard that next bus to Langtang was next morning and we would arrive at night, François insisted on renting the motos directly and leave Kathmandu. 

Last thing before leaving was to acquire the trekking permit of Nepal for 20 dollars. Around 15:40 we were driving out of Kathmandu and our decision to get the bikes started paying us off directly.

Beautiful landscapes and fog in the valley

The lanscapes in Nepal are magic and having the bikes just made us enjoy more while we were stopping quite often for photos. 

The way they carve all the hills and mountains for rice and vegetable plantation looks unreal. Deep valleys, high mountains, countless rivers and waterfalls can describe nature at its best in Nepal.

Crafted valleys and high mountains - Everest is in the pic

After one and a half hours driving it was getting dark and we thought it would be good to find a place to sleep. We wanted to ask locals for hospitality and François saw an old man with a big local "trompet" on his back so he stopped. While they were discussing in body language I was surrounded by five kids having our little discussions too. I told them with my little Nepali my name and that I come from Greece. They introduced also and start asking me many questions I couldnt reply. They really liked the bike too. François told me that probably we sleep at someones place so I was happy. When I say involve with locals I mean exactly this. Simple and authentic locals that dont speak english.
Before moving kids asked me if I have chocolate and I was sad I didnt have. Then they spotted my mandolin and I told them I ll come back in 30 minutes to play for them.

We followed the old man for 200m and he took us to the little shop of another local that could speak few english. His name was Namraj and he prepared us a tea. I asked about place to sleep and food and he said we ll go at his house in an hour. People started gathering in the shop to see the strange foreigners.  The tromped guy assembled his trompet and showed me the way the play it. Probably they use it only for spiritual rituals. I took out the mandolin and started playing for them. I think it really made them happy.

Then I took some chocolates and my mandolin and went back to the first place we stopped as I promised to the kids. Electricity was out and in the pitch black the mother was scared when she saw me. I didnt want to scare her more. I just spreaded my hand and passed her the chocolates for the kids before I walk back to Namraj's shop. The village was called Amare in Nuwakot district.

Time passed and we went at his house. I asked him for some local rice seeds and he was happy to give. Of course I couldnt carry too much but I got a decent amount. We had some delicious food and buffalo milk while meeting his family. Later we went to feed the chickens next to the shop and we returned to the house. Namraj gave us his and his wife's room and wouldn't accept no for an answer. 

In Namraj's room - dreaming of the sea

Next morning after having a chai, we wanted to leave some money as a thank you but he wouldn't accept it. And that's what I call hospitality. We promised to pass by on the way back and we hit the road.

François,  Namraj and Namraj junior in his shop

After two-three hours we thought to have a chai and something to eat. We were looking again for an authentic local place. We found a small community of 10-15 houses surrounding the road and the stop our bikes. 

We asked for chai and we took a sit while the family called their 10 years old son to communicate in english. His name is Sushil and man, he could soeak great english. All the covillagers were admiring the kid for being able to communicate with us so easily.

Very beautiful and hospitale family. Sushil wrote down for me some nepali expressions I wanted to know and after a short music session, we exchanged contacts and promised to see again on the way back. Sushil's younger sister had a very expressive face looking like a movie star. Warm and beautiful, when she looks at you and smiles can really make your heart fly. This village was called Dharapani in RasuRasuwa district.

The stop in Dharapani. Sushil and sister are in the left

I have to say that during the bike ride we saw many many beautiful simple women with colourful clothes. Men can be happy making this roadtrip.

Soon we arrived in langtang national park (paying again 30 $ just to take a permit to enter) and we drove down to seybrubesi where we were thinking to leave the bikes and start the hike next morning. We got a hotel next to the river and to our surprise we read that there are hot springs next to it :)

We left our stuff and headed to the springs. When we arrived we saw just a tiny pool (2x1.5m) filled only with women. For 30 seconds we didnt know what to do until I found the courage to ask if we can join. In 1 minute me and Francois were enjoying the hot water surrounded by nepali women and girls of all ages (including a 3-4 years old boy). I started making silly talking to break the ice and soon there was no much awkardness left, just people enjoying the presents of nature. two pipes were bringing water, one hot and one normal. Slowly slowly we were moving towards the hot and I got my place next to the pipe. I dont remember what I was jibbering about making gestures when my arm rested for a second under the pouring hot water. I did a very funny scream and all the nepali women started laughing hard, enjoying my suffering. :)

The night we discovered the old seybrubesi across the bridge and wished we had stayed there as it was so beautiful and original.

On the bridge of old Seybrubesi

Next morning the big trek would begun.

Travelling buddies - Alex and Martin

When you travel alone, you are never alone.

This is a fact that all people who never travelled alone should know. Moreover, sometimes you choose the wrong companion and you are stuck with it until the end of your trip while you could have met so many people along the way.

So the advice for today is to book a trip for just yourself and when you finally go, just start meeting other travellers or locals.

I want to say a few words about the two wonderful persons I shared some time with on my first month.

Alex is a guy I met in Nice through a greek friend Tonia. We only saw each other two times there but we shared some good talking. The summer that passed I met Alex again in a friend's house in Crete quite randomly and we exchanged emails as I was getting the feeling that we will meet again.

A common friend told me that Alex is in India and that I should mail him and so I did. I got a nice reply saying that we should meet somewhere and pass sometime together.

In reality, I got to know Alex in these 15 days we travelled together but I had the same feeling from before, when we didnt know each other so well. It is hard to find words to describe such wonderful persons so I will just say one thing, his presence in a place is filling it with pure love. He has many good qualities to learn from.

Martin is the guy we met in the bus to Manali and spend a week together. He is 24 years old and his perceiving of what life is is much better and clearer than mine when I was 24.

Good-hearted man, very humble and very good company to have around.

I could travel with these guys for months and months having only beautiful conversations and without having even a small fight.

Thank you guys for the amazing memories. See you again soon.

To finish up, here are some updates from my trip.
The 20/11 we left parvati valley to arrive the next day in Rishikesh and do some yoga there.

Rishikesh and especially Laxman Jhula is like the international capital of yoga and it is a good place to try yoga if you never tried. Ganga river is passing through the city and of course we went for a swim. Except from yoga, each day was including a visit to a place.  In day 1 was the vashishta cave, day 2 the Beatles ashram and day 3 the holy city Haridwar.

I never thought that I would say this but the Beatles ashram is a magic place. It is totally abandoned by humans since many years so nature has taken over and the atmosphere inside this place is so mystical and spiritual. There is a guard that might not let you in so if thats the case, go around and sneak in from the side near the Ganga (as we did).

The night of the 25th I started a two days road trip to meet my really good friend from Nice, Francois, in Kathmandu Nepal. Francois is so spontanious he just booked tickets one week before just to come and do some good old travelling together.

Finally the night of 27th arrived and me and Francois met in beautiful but dusty Kathmandu.